Here’s the truth: in the realm of cookie dough ice creams I have paid little to no attention to the non chocolate-chip varieties. A big mistake—huge—I discovered upon tasting my first heaping spoonful of Steve’s Speculoos Cookie Butter ice cream. Sweet, a bit gooey and with a subtle hint of spice, this pint shares little in common with its chocolate chip predecessors. Made from the batter for Dutch speculoos cookies—those pretty gingerbread-esque shortcrust biscuits often with a bas-relief design (windmills, trees etc)—and blended into a dairy-free base of organic coconut cream (an added boon for the dairy-sensitive among us), it is as the great Mike Myers regularly quipped on Coffee Talk, like buttah. FV