The Beagle, More Bite than Bark

Brothers Danny and Kieran Clancy are best known for their electronic music night, krankbrother, showcasing some of the world’s best DJs in locations as disparate as rooftops, boats, mountains, and beaches. So it comes as no real surprise to hear that their latest (this time, culinary) venture is set under three railway arches. Beagle, the newly opened restaurant and bar in Shoreditch, London is a somber mix of bare brick, brushed blackened steel light fixtures, and, in keeping with the location, reclaimed railway sleepers. And while the space arguably would have made yet another great venue to host some of krankbrother’s regular artists (Four Tet, Magda, and Josh Wink to name a few), the genius partnership with James Ferguson to lead the Beagle kitchen puts the focus firmly on all things edible. Formerly head chef of the hushed-don’t-tell-anyone-it’s-our-awesome-secret Rochelle Canteen, Ferguson’s love for seasonal, produce-led British cooking ensures Beagle has an ever-changing delectable menu. Perhaps in a bid to balance out such a masculine production, the appetizer, main, dessert, and cocktail I ordered all came in varying shades of lustrous pink. Or maybe I just enjoy food that ranges from blushing to bloody. Either way, the candy-striped, red, and golden beet salad with oozing Bantam egg, flushed grilled lamb and homemade rhubarb bitters in the Krank cocktail made for an incredibly upbeat feast. ANDIE CUSICK