If you have yet to try Calliope, the unassuming and entirely excellent restaurant on a busy corner of 2nd ave in New York’s east village I can’t encourage you enough to go. Now. The French-leaning menu offers a parade of unfussy, delicious fare (I’ve especially enjoyed the rustic chanterelle and leek tart and the tripe topped with gremolata and a fried egg), but it’s the lamb neck that, particularly with the recent wave of cold weather, feels perfect right about now. Slow-braised in a tangy hot and sour broth until it becomes meltingly tender, then topped with a tangle of bright green onion and accompanied by creamy mascarpone filled agnolotti (which, admittedly, we wouldn’t have minded a few more of), it is satisfaction on a plate. FV
